Hanoi – North Central Loop
Route Summary
Duration: 9 days - 1,625 kms
This for most with flights into account is the perfect two week adventure. Add a day off in Sapa and Halong Bay and you’ve done the Far North Central properly. April/May works but ideally September/October.
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Distance – 190 Kms
So far as getting out of a major city is concerned so long as you avoid peak times this is reasonably simple. I’ve mapped it from City Centre but from anywhere once on the QL32 you’re away.
The old quarter has plenty of charm and a nice walk around Hoan Kiem (Turtle) Lake or Tay Hồ at Westlake, either way they’re vibrant areas evening and morning.
As expected out of any major city plenty of traffic early but the mountains aren’t too far away and the day just keeps getting better.
(A) is a nice coffee shop break with the city left well behind.
(B) after a section following the Da River a really good lunch spot just before hitting the mountains.
(C) is in the country one of only two places I don’t have multiple recommendations for. Stayed here the first time and been ever since.
It’s not cheap so a booking.com search for an alternative but the infinity pool overlooking the farmland with nice rooms sells it for me.
Distance: 230 kms
Staying here by yourself might be considered overkill but worth every dong each time I’ve been so it draws me back. A no brainer if travelling with your partner.
A swim first up, then overlooking the infinity pool waiting for the sun, an office hard to beat. Immersed in serenity and getting some work done at the same time. A pretty good way to start the day.
The breakfast is a bit ordinary though so coffee and a selfie with the parrot and it’s time to make noise. The ride out of here gets you fired up and into the rhythm very quickly. Plenty of beauty but eyes only for apexes through this pass up with the best in Vietnam.
(A) Interrupted by a nice waterfall and coming out of Hanoi may be your first one for the trip. If this is an extension on the west you might be waterfalled out so keep at it..
(B) Is a must stop. Coffee, refreshments and for me breakfast, is available, so take some time here. If your timing is right, a popular launch point for paragliding.
,(C) Is a War Memorial Monument and another view perspective. This pass at 1,500 metres with views to the valley and distant mountains is up with the best in Vietnam for wow factor.
(D) Is around where I took these terraces mid-September 23, and the first time I seen them going to gold. One of the very lovely terraced rice regions in the country.
I’ve ventured well off the main roads in this area over the years but the narrow steep and often unsealed tracks are not without risk. If on an XR or similar, worth the time to explore.
(E & F) are well placed rest and photo stops. A few corn cobs and rice turns to tea around (F) but as we get closer to Sapa the staple takes over again.
(G) Is the best viewpoint to Mount Fansipan. At 3,143 metres “The Roof of Indochina”.
(H) On a clear day the views from this monstrosity are no doubt phenomenal though my drone gets me where I need to be for perspective so I’ve not done it.
My first time to Sapa was to a mountain village in 2012. Quaint, unique and for the minority people who live there very special. Don’t get me wrong. It’s still very much a must visit area but not for the same reasons.
Persistent harassment from sellers taking advantage of the tourist mecca has become a nuisance. Using children late into the night to coerce tourists into buying. Like Hoi An particularly but other hotspots also never to be again what it was.
A day here can be well filled with the train and cable car experience to the summit of Fansipan particularly if the visibility is good.
During the ride speakers in the gondola will educate you on the Guiness Records the service boasts. The longest 6292 metres and at its highest point 1410 metres from the ground. Was a 40 odd minute, terrifying experience for my wife.
The weather makes all the difference but it’s hard to pick from ground level. In the first photo, low cloud so nearly didn’t go, only to find above the clouds a beautiful blue sky on pillows. The second photo a lovely clear day on the ground and in the fog on the summit.
In any case it really is worth going in any conditions particularly if you are unlikely to get back again.
Distance: 260 kms
The early run out of Sapa to Lao Cai is a pleasant descent. A very busy stretch though running visitors to various transport options including the overnight train to Hanoi. Patience is required as the bus drivers have none.
You may get a photo at the China Border as your first stop.
For the next few hours we keep a view of China on our left much of the time. The mountains are sensational as is the riding.
(A) is a waterfall well placed for a break just before one of very few villages we pass through for the day. Nothing much in the way of attractions at all really but for me the whole ride is one ongoing attraction.
(B, C & D) keep you from straying. Some harsh country up here. You’re not too far from China in this section.
(E) A great coffee or food stop with this view. The food and people very good.
(F) A basic but clean and well managed hotel I’ve used a few times if you want to pull up short.
Coc Pai is a wonderful little riverside village in a deep valley. The road into it is steep in places so a bit of care in that area. I had my only bike issue touring in Vietnam here in 2020 so learned a bit about the place with my extended time there.
The road quality takes a dive after Coc Pai as does our average speed. Plenty of off rides in this area if time allows but don’t worry the map is on the hardtop as much as possible.
I rode through here in the wet a few years and where the road had been cut out of the mountains literally 100’s of small waterfalls were created. As spectacular as that was I prefer it in the dry.
Distance: 260 kms
The early ride to Ha Giang is pretty simple and as always best to get away early. Today is a photographer’s wet dream so lots to take in. Watch your speed around Ha Giang. The police are used to tourists, speak English and are very friendly but do it by the book. 700k my biggest fine ever 60 in a 50.
(A) A waterfall and early coffee stop.
(B) Out the North side of Ha Giang, Bac Sum Pass is another good stop for a break and food if you’re ready with a view tower for photos if the weather is clear.
(C) Just up the road is this popular coffee stop with great views. This is a high motorcycle tourist area and part of the well marketed ‘Ha Giang Loop’. Mostly foreigners and most inexperienced so take care around them.
(D) Plenty of great riding today and this is mapped to get you on the best of it. Nothing technical but exceptional in all aspects.
(E) Is one of the viewpoints to this rather famous section of road.
Drop (F & G) off this map to cut 30km off if short on time. Can back-track to the Northern most point tomorrow with an early start.
(H) A great panoramic view and where you will turn for the descent into Dong Van. In wet conditions particularly lots of leaf litter on this section can be hazardous if unaware.
(I) My favourite of the accommodation I’ve tried here. Plenty on offer these days though.
Distance: 120 kms
This is the best riding day in Vietnam in many ways. Interesting, challenging in places, and just beautiful. Not a long day but it will take time. If continuing through to Cao Bang get away early.
This is a memorable day ride full of panoramic city and ocean views. To get away at dawn is very special on the right day.
(A) Lung Cu Flag Pole is a box tick that is well worth doing if you bypassed it yesterday.
The stretch into (B) is a fantastic narrow wind that doesn’t go anywhere in particular. To some chickens in someone’s yard actually. Challenging but not dangerous and great views.
(C) This monument is in memory of the lives lost in the building of the happiness road. Right next to the entry to the skypass.
This next section is together with the ‘Dragon Spine’ at Ta Xua the most potentially dangerous rides here. If in doubt, delete (D & E) and stay on the main road. In 2023 they didn’t let me up there so might not even be an option any longer.
(D) to (E) extends right through to the main road though Google doesn’t show it. This is an awesome ride. The views are magnificent but in places not for the faint hearted. It isn’t technical but you need a clear head. A mistake in the wrong place could be rather final. If not riding it consider walking to the view point.
This photo I took from the top of a sketchy side path I took off the ‘Skypass’ a few years ago. One of my absolute favourite shots and one very few would have.
(F) Once back on the main road the Panorama Cafe is a good spot for a break. The views from there are also epic.
(H) This bypass anyone can safely do and should do. Sealed, wider and awesome. There’s a few view points but keep at it until these boys in green tell you you’re close enough to China.
Distance: 198 kms
Meo Vac is the mountain city, for some reason, I feel a bit drawn too. I’ve always had a good night there but always very different.
The morning walk is peaceful and the surrounding countryside up with the best in the country.
This is, in itself, another cracking ride day but hard to be amazed after the enormity of the previous two days.
More of the same you could say although not on the tourist trail so local traffic only even pre Covid. Tours are either through Ba Be Lakes to Ban Gioc or to Sapa, Ha Giang and the flagpole. Nothing much in the way of attractions but for me it’s one big attraction.
If heavy rain always be mindful in areas with steep cutaways of falling rocks or worst case landslides. Especially where you start to see a few rocks on the roads. The two passes marked on the map are crackers but don’t get off map today. Pretty harsh country.
(A, B, C & E) are photo pins on this map and to keep you going the right way.
(D) I haven’t spoilt with a photo but you’ll know it when you see it. Amazing!
Distance: 192 kms
This is a really fun day, especially with a good crew. The ride is pleasant but not challenging. The roads are more open and the speed considerably higher so you’ll make good time. I recommend an early start though because you can spend hours enjoying the off time.
(A) This first detour is worth it. Wasn’t brave enough to run the drone through the middle but doable I think if a bit closer to it. Get it wrong though and the final flight for sure.
(B & C) Are interesting photo stop areas along the way.
The enormity of the falls is quite amazing. The visual the first time you see them has quite a bit of wow factor. Even in the dry season I doubt you’ll be disappointed.
My first time there with this wild mob was, shall we say, memorable. As was that entire tour actually.
There’s plenty of food and beverage on offer so allow plenty of time at the falls. Also a lot of cool souvenir sellers if you want to take something home.
There are no swimming signs everywhere but we decided this didn’t apply to Aussies. These photos are my first time and swam every time since. The sound and the power of the water off the falls is very impressive. An experience not to be missed.
There are guards with whistles but this Aussie mob have bad hearing and they gave up. Busy stopping others trying to follow our lead though.
Tourists are well catered for with activities. There are tourist boats on both the Vietnam and China side of the falls. The boat ride too, worth the minimal fee.
I’ve got you on a loop and the run back is an excellent part of this ride. We start following the river which is the China border then for many maybe in over a month you turn to head South.
(E) is a detour to some caves but not this one pictured which is over our route. A big surprise for me the first time I approached it. Not something you see everyday.
(F) will get you back to town and (G) to my preferred accommodation.
Distance: 175 kms
If the border run to Mong Cai or a night on Ha Long Bay don’t grab you but rather an afternoon or even a couple of days relaxing sounds good this is your way back to the Capital.
The Ba Be Lake area is quite unique in many ways. The recently resurfaced road around the edge of the lake is a plus for riders. Another fantastic though short day ride.
This is a great area for a day off the bike but only 135 kms, so you can get it done in the morning and have a lovely afternoon out on the lake as minimum.
The limestone mountains and old growth forest surrounding the biggest natural lake in the country are awesome. There’s caves to explore and a plethora of nature trekking on offer.
Ba in Vietnamese language is three. Three main rivers feed the system which has three islands. It’s 8 km long, up to 29 metres deep and with 6.5 square kilometres of surface area
Accommodation and the boat ride are very cheap. There’s caves and a waterfall, all be it pretty lame compared to Ban Gioc. The afternoon on the water exceptional all the same.
(A & B) Are landmark photo stops
(C) A good rest spot
(D) For a coffee fix
(E) A museum of sorts but also some good local restaurants around for lunch.
(F) Check out the Caves
(G) Where you catch a boat for a number of tours offered.
(H) One of my favourite of the accommodation options.
