HCM City – Hanoi 15 Days
Route Summary
Duration: 15 days - 3,385 kms
These are my recommended series of day routes to see and experience the best of the country from both the riding and landscape perspectives between its two biggest cities. Certainly Southern Vietnam is home to the best beaches and roads that follow them in the country. This ride takes the best of them in, mixed with the best of the Southern and Central Highlands.
Click for Route details:
Distance: 145 kms
From the first right hand turn you get the feeling Saigon is well behind you and it’s game on.
Though at this point still a view to D7 its a very different environment for the first timer out of the city. I remember it some 12 years ago fondly for that.
The first stretch of the river road is unsealed but generally pretty solid with plenty of pot holes but you’re out of the rat race and into the fun.
No problem for the XR’s and Adventure bikes but if on a road bike or scoot you might prefer the main road and rejoin this map later.
Always plenty to keep you interested. This isn’t a fast ride but one to relax and take it in along the way.
(A, B, C & D) All just way points on this one to keep you exploring off the main arterials. The coffee stop is a good one.
There is a short unavoidable stint on the QL51 before the left turn which gets you back on some quiet back roads.
(E) on the map is a winding bitumen road and a nice ride if time allows. Plenty of off tracks and temples to explore up there too.
Distance: 155 kms
This is by far the best way I’ve been to avoid the traffic getting out North of the city and my favourite way to Vung Tau also. The police are rather active in the first 10 km or so from the ferry so watch your speed in that area.
Once you’re on the North side of the highway the roads open up and you can get a little more liberal with the throttle.
You’ll pass under the expressway and that’s my indicator that the fun is about to get real.
From there its diverse farmland and rubber plantations most of the way to the coast. Plenty of great deviations off this map so if you have time follow it loosely and enjoy some exploring. Many of the trails aren’t on maps but it doesn’t matter you’ll pick it up again later.
(A) gets you around the first and usually the only police stop and a bowl of Pho if you missed breakfast. Some other good food options once you get over the highway.
(B & C) are a couple of lakes to check out. Plenty of exploring to be done around these. Corn, banana, pepper, lots of sweet potato and cassava are grown in this area.
(D) is a good lunch option and keeps on the right track through some rubber to the next lake. Careful ordering – the portions are very generous.
(E) is another lake and a good spot to throw a line for a half distance break.
(F) is a memorial cross in memory of the 18 Australian and 245 Vietnamese soldiers killed In the August 1966 Battle of Long Tan.
(G) gets you down to the ocean for a coastal ride into Vung Tau. If short on time you can drop (G) at the Long Tan Cross for the more direct run in through Ba Ria.
(H) for a nice ride around the coast into Vung Tau.
(I) A cold beer for sundowners overlooking the harbour awaits. An air conditioned sports bar with a great rooftop area all at a very reasonable price.
Distance: 300 kms
Day one out of Vung Tau is just so much nicer than out of Ho Chi Minh City. We start off along the coast rather than having to battle the city traffic. Some weekend tourist traffic along this stretch but very quiet weekdays.
(A & B) get you the best way out then,
(C & D) take you for a look through an interesting fishing village.
The road leaves the absolute coast then a little and some heavy vehicles to be aware of until you get to
(E) on the map which is a great coffee stop on the water. Fully renovated now so this quaint little bar no longer.
Go easy speed wise into and out of Lagi. The traffic police in this area are rather dedicated.
Once you cross the A1 its game on though to your night destination really.
Note: In the first 5km after you cross the expressway there is often cattle on the road.
Good consistent hot mix. Fast open sweepers early then tightens up in the mountains. If you’re scratching the pegs here you won’t anywhere. One of my favourites in the South.
(F) missing this detour will cut your day by 15 km but a great lunch and swim spot.
(G) The first lake is worth the short detour but the road into the dam wall is sometimes closed of late.
(H) on the map is a detour 10 km each way and really worth doing if you have the time. Some great photo stops around a very picturesque lake system.
Distance 240 kms
As you will find evident with most of my recommended routes, the best way is far from the shortest way. Today’s ride is a great example of that. We literally go backwards to go forwards but so worth it.
(A) a coffee shop is nothing special. Just a way point really.
(B) takes you around the dam wall as you can no longer ride over that. Good photo spot when you get to the wall. Especially if they are letting some water go.
(C) is your lunch stop. The food’s good and the restaurant views up with the best.
(G) is worth a stop. Climb up into the statue for great countryside views if you’re feeling fit. The Buddhist prayer area inside the statue at the base is worth checking out and from the base the best view of the waterfall also.
Other waypoints are keeping you on the right roads and you’ll find plenty of great photo stops during the afternoon ride. Really a great day in the South particularly given how terrible the busier options are.
Lots of accommodation options in Dalat but even so can be very busy in holiday times so it’s wise to book ahead.
(I) a favourite I use a lot. Quite unique particularly if you’re with a lady and a short walk to the night market and many of the recommended food options listed.
Distance: 215 kms
This is one of my favourite ride days in the South. A mix of great mountain and valley riding with some incredibly beautiful coastline thrown in.
Lorelle is your host for breakfast at One More Cafe. Very cheap for the quality of the meals though 8am open so it depends how early you want to get away. I recommend a good breakfast in any case as a good lunch spot I’m still yet to find on the route.
The morning ride off the plateau is a ripper.
(A) Some ladies selling fruit and drinks just before the big descent is a great first stop. This lovely lady has been looking after me there for years.
At the bottom of the descent plenty of cafes before the left turn where you start to follow the Cai River.
(B) A waterfall detour. It’s a bit of a trek in and with swim or fishing spots everywhere through there if you’re keen, an easy one to leave out.
(C) On the top of another range with views to the coast on a clear day is a must stop.
A short highway link then the coast ride around the headlands to your night stop is one of the best coastal rides in the country.
D, E, F & G all way points strategically placed as great photo stops before your night stop.
Distance: 275 kms
The dawn is always out the front over the water and a good place to enjoy it from. An early swim, an early start on the bike or a relaxing breakfast from 7.30am all great options here.
If the weather is right there’s lots to see today and the coast ride at dawn is stunning if you’re up for it.
Some great photo opportunities including a quaint fishing village in a protected bay. I’ve marked numerous on the map but often through here now I’m so into the ride I bypass most. For safety use the well located parking bays. Tour buses frequent the area these days.
(A-D) on the map are great photo stops but plenty on offer.
(E) over the bridge to get you off the highway.
(F) is a great stop. Good food option right on the sand if you missed breakfast. The burgers are exceptional.
(G) is a good little pub run by Andy and Van if it’s getting around lunch time.
(H) you could give a miss if time is stretched but worth the diversion if not. Alternatively some great accommodation down there if you want to pull up short.
(I) I love this peaceful bay and the sister restaurant also pretty good though by road better to it than the rocky path if coming home in the dark after a few beverages:) Great fishing spot if you’re like me and take a pack rod.
Distance: 185 kms
The coast ride today has some pleasant sections with exceptional coastal views but also some unavoidable stretches on the A1 so you need to be mindful of heavy vehicles on those sections. Not a big day distance wise and due to the higher speeds on the highway sections you’ll cover the distance easily so plenty of time to enjoy the stops and lunch. Some of the country’s most picturesque coastline so take your time.
(A) don’t miss this. Well worth the short detour and walk out to the lighthouse. Take water, it’s further than you think.
(B) is this very nicely constructed monument on the beach.
(C) is my recommendation for lunch if fresh seafood appeals to you. Many restaurants are on the water and haven’t found a bad one yet.
(D) plenty of great coastline and farmland to enjoy.
(G) At the top plenty of ladies selling souvenirs, snacks and drinks. A favourite early ride of mine for a Cafe Sua Da.
(E) Vietnam’s longest wooden bridge. I’ve been over it many times but its condition varies. Won’t be for everyone and there will be a small fee at the other end. Easy to go around the road if you opt out.
(F & G) are two of the many hotels and food options attached
Distance: 285 kms
Quy Nhon is the best beach city in Vietnam in my opinion. A beautiful beach with a well kept parkland to accompany it. This is the dawn not to miss. From first light it is a vibrant area as the local dance groups, elderly and young alike exercise and swim in the dawn. I’m most often the only Westerner there and by 6.30am it’s all over. Get at it!
The map reads at 283 km but it’s only that if you want it to be. There’s a few detours that add nearly 80km. The longest is to check out a couple of lakes that you can decide on depending on time. Once you turn onto Truong Son Dong it gets quite isolated and you’ll make good time. Make sure you are fueled up and take water. Not much in the way of services through there but a cracking ride. The hotmix when you turn left to Mang Den is the best in the country.
(A) is a Buddhist Temple
(B) a hydro dam wall
(C) is the airstrip back in the supply trail days
(D) to check out the Vinh Son Lakes
(E) the Kon Chu Rang rangers station
(F) there is bottle fuel and cold refreshments
(G) a great little coffee shop ++
(H) Mang Den is a unique village in Vietnam and the Dak Ke Lake makes a nice morning walk.
(I) is a hidden gem. My favourite place to stay but book early. Not too many rooms.
Distance: 150 kms
There’s not too much in the way of attractions on this ride though for me the whole ride is an attraction. Shorter in respect of distance and for anyone wanting to make up a day easy enough to continue on up the coast to Hoi An or Da Nang.
To Veo Lac this morning is an exceptional track. For those on big bangers as good as it gets. Can be hard on footpegs and exhaust guards 
Plenty off this map to explore if you want to fill the day up particularly for those on XR’s or smaller capacity adventure bikes. I take my Multistrada anywhere but it can be challenging, especially in the steep mountain areas.
(A, B, C & E) today are scenic areas for photo opportunities or just to suck it in.
(B) is a great view over the valley where you are about to ride in the foreground.
Once you get off the range for the more adventurous (D) will divert you to a minority road and through some lovely village country. This bridge is the entry if you turn a little earlier. Much more interesting through there. Some unsealed sections but at the rate the concrete is going down will be all paved before long.
Once into My Khe you’ll notice plenty of fresh seafood restaurants along the beach road. I find them expensive and the beer is never cold. The restaurant attached to the hotel is as good as any for my money. It’s a lovely beach and a great place to be up at dawn. This sunset I shot with my drone shows just how narrow the land passage is between the river and beach.
Distance: 250 kms
In terms of distance this is a short day and a pleasant uncomplicated ride. 20 kms longer if you continue up the coast to Danang.
If Hindu ruins are of any interest to you it can be a very big day though. I’m not much for pagodas and temples so choose to visit only the more elaborate and famous but I do find My Son interesting. You can literally spend hours exploring the various sites.
Some interesting stops of interest along the way but My Son is the area to spend the majority of your available time.
(A) if you get away early is a great coastline vantage point.
(B) a war museum but really just marked to get you the best way out over the A1.
(C&D) a few nice waterfalls and nature walks in this area. Bit of time required to get the best of it.
(E) some decent local food stops in this area
(F) My Son Group is a World Heritage listed archeological site. These Hindu temple ruins date back as far as the 4th century and in my opinion a must do. 150k entry fee and surprisingly very few tourists generally.
A golf cart takes you to site from the entrance then on foot and it can be hot so take water. The parking guys will mind your helmet and jacket. No Drones allowed apparently 
Many restaurants around the area offer Be Thui. Rare cooked Veal wrapped in leaf with vegetable. Quite a treat and not often offered.
From there its a simple ride into Hoi An or Danang to your preferred accommodation. The maps destination is a very nice Aussie owned Boutique Hotel.
Distance: 180 kms
This is a relatively short ride day so no time pressure to get at it early. The early riser though, is regularly rewarded with a beautiful sunrise on busy beaches.
One of my preferred morning beach cities for the vibe. Several ladies in their dancing groups mixing exercise with social entertainment.
For those who get at it early, the morning views from the Monkey Pass over Danang City and from the Hai Van pass of the ocean are quite spectacular so long as there is no low cloud.
For those on automatic transmission scooters delete (A, B & C) as they are NOT allowed on the Monkey Pass.
You need to be aware that trucks carrying flammables are not allowed in the tunnel so run over the pass. This is less frequent with many using the expressway around behind the pass.
Watch for two coming at you side by side in unrealistic overtaking maneuvers in any case.
(D) Is the coffee stop at the top of the Pass. Plenty of sellers there with souvenirs etc. Some fortresses too, battle scarred from gunfire to hold ground between the North and South historically.
Some nice views coming off the pass on the North side too but keep focused on the job and park safely for photography.
(E) Is your seafood lunch stop right on the beach. A few options in the area. All good, but this one has western seating and always been happy with the food.
(F) After lunch this map will take you to another interesting coastal area. Then onto an island with some interesting and ornate centuries old burial sites.
There is a lot to do around Hue. To the North, the Vinh Moc Tunnels are interesting but nothing further on the coast really. The citadel is right in town. If it’s a hot day, take plenty of water. I find with the high perimeter walls it’s uncomfortably hot in there.
A sunset boat ride up the river for sunset is a nice finish for the day and relatively inexpensive.
Distance: 195 kms
Get down to the river early. It’s a nice vibe with the locals exercising along the boardwalk and fisherman beating the sun in their open boats.
This isn’t a big day travel time wise but you can burn some time at the stops. A nice early start following the Perfume River out of Hue.
(A, B & C) are all historic points of interest. A good coffee stop right in front at the left turn up the top.
(D) on the map is Hamburger Hill, the site of a significant battle offensive in May 1969. There is a memorial at the top and a number of other sites off the main track.
It’s quite a climb and as I understand it you are supposed to have a guide although I did it by myself. Adds only 15 kms to the day but some time. Take water if tackling this.
Even if you decide against the climb it’s a great area to go exploring off this map in any case. I went alone the first time and all went okay but very remote so I advise sticking to the main tracks if by yourself.
From there we meet up with the HCM Road and follow the Thach Han River. Some really nice swim and photo opportunities along this stretch.
(E) on the map the best of them.
(F & G) again historical sites keeping you on the right path.
(G) is the US Military Combat Base. Opens at 7.30am if you get in late and well worth a look for the modest entry fee. Quite a bit to learn there if you want to commit the time.
Distance: 230 kms
This is not a huge day distance wise but will take longer than you think. With an early start you’ll get it done comfortably at a relaxed pace though. This stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road is quite simply a must do experience in this country. Mostly a raked concrete surface with plenty of grip but hard on tyre’s and challenging in places if riding spiritedly. Landslides are common through here so be mindful of sand or clay on corners. My favourite ride day between Danang and Hanoi.
There’s a good Banh Mi lady just down the hill from Green Hotel. Doesn’t hurt to grab a second one to take with you. Not a lot of culinary options on offer today. The other tags are either accommodation options or places of interest.
These days there is fuel available about half way but as always a good idea to fill before you leave and take water. Not too much in the way of services through much of this.
(A) The US Military Combat Base. Opens at 7.30am and is well worth a look for the modest entry fee. Quite a bit to learn there if you want to commit the time.
(B & C) are nice swim spots well located for rest stops.
(D) a good photo stop.
(E) one of few accommodation options if you wanted to break it up.
(F) another photo stop and
(G) a higher end accommodation option in the village on the river.
Phong Nha township on the banks of the Son River is part of Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The area has developed in recent years as a popular tourist destination. Even with the interruption of Covid a popular destination for domestic travelers, locals and expats alike.
Attractions include numerous caves to explore. Phong Nha Cave is a leisurely river cruise through caves under the mountains and Paradise Cave, a little more traditional dry cave is cheap and readily accessible. At the high end Hang Son Doong is reportedly the world’s largest cave with its own very unique ecosystem and a four day commitment far from cheap to explore.
Also of note the limestone and bauxite monoliths rising from a vast floodplain where the land sections in the making of King Kong were filmed makes part of a great motorcycling day loop.
(H) Is my go to out of town on the plain. Well appointed comfortable ensuite hotel rooms to pool villas with a well stocked bar, great pool and an extensive menu.
Distance: 300 kms
This looks like a big day but really it isn’t. Open deserted roads so you’ll make good time. Unless coming off the HCM Road the accommodation options today are pretty thin so it’s worth an early start and get it done.
The road into the Laos border is an absolute beauty. Don’t miss that 38k’s each way but obviously by letting it slide you’ll shorten the day significantly. Plenty of trucks, mostly pulling ore out of Laos so you need to be mindful of that. As the photo suggests, not all get it right.
Once back on Uncle Ho’s Road it opens up and is a bit of a transit leg comparatively to your night stop.
(B) The pick up point for a boat tour around the tea farms.
Weather permitting, it’s a pleasant experience and not expensive. I’ve been a few times and never crowded.
Great drone area too. This is one of my favourite low level shots.
Distance: 300 kms
A reasonable sized day distance wise but easy as it’s not as big a day scenery wise, therefore photography wise. Compared with where you’ve come from and particularly where you may be going the country flattens out a bit in this section so with that higher average speed.
If you don’t have time for a day off in your schedule, get an early start tomorrow to be in mid afternoon. The Tam Coc area is worthy of a good look around. Besides, a dawn start every so often is good for your soul.
(A) a good morning coffee option
(B) is the HCM Trail 0 milestone. Good first photo and rest stop.
Plenty of good food options along the way as always. Where restaurants are over water you can be sure of good seafood even this far off the coast. Alive in tanks so no question around freshness.
(C) is a massive sunflower farm that at certain times of the year is quite spectacular.
(D) is just keeping you on the right track
(E) is an interesting place to check out. A lot of this 13th century Imperial Fortress is in ruins but the gates I imagine rebuilt are pretty impressive. Have a good look around and leave through the East gate to pick up this map again.
(F) another tour option you could bypass if time poor
(G) a great accommodation option perfectly located
It is at the end of the village so an early morning walk through the rice paddies and mountain area is recommended. Having a flick for a fish is good fun.
(H) The Caves boat tour is a must do.
The best of many tours offered in the area if having a day off here or in early enough to squeeze it into the afternoon. Last boats leave at 3.30pm for the full 3 hour tour.
While the lady paddles down the back, relax and enjoy this beautiful part of the country. Of note this is the area the water scenes for King Kong movie blockbuster were shot.
Distance: 135 kms
Without going stupidly out of the way a stretch on the A1 is unavoidable on your way towards the Capital. As you get closer though the pins on this map takes you around the worst of it on top of a levee bank.
We run along that to within a few kilometres of the Southern side of the city.
Be particularly aware of other road users into Hanoi. If you think HCM drivers and riders are reckless wait until you see the antics of some of these characters
If your stay in the Old Quarter is a weekend the Hoan Kiem Lake just a few minutes walk is shut off to traffic and a pretty cool scene. ‘Note Coffee’ on your right as you approach the lake do a great job of the morning caffeine fix.
Plenty of option bars and food options wise in this area also.
The Tay Ho, West Lakes area is the other to consider for your accommodation. Most expats live in this area and also has plenty of great restaurant and bar options.
The morning walk around this lake is exceptional as far as major cities go.
Map Links:
- Cat Lai – Vung Tau via River
- Cat Lai – Vung Tau via Lakes
- Vung Tau – Bao Loc
- Bao Loc – Ta Dung – Dalat
- Dalat – Sorrento Beach Club
- Sorrento Beach Club – Whale Island
- Whale Island – Quy Nhon
- Quy Nhon – Mang Den
- Mang Den – My Khe
- My Khe – Hoi An Inland
- Da Nang – Hue
- Hue – Khe Sanh
- Khe Sanh – Phong Nha
- Phong Nha – Gia Lao
- Gia Lao – Tam Coc
- Tam Coc – Hanoi
