HCM City – Da Nang via Phong Nha – 13 Days
Route Summary
Duration: 13 days - 3,035 kms
These are my recommended series of day routes to see and experience the best of the South from both the riding and landscape perspectives. Certainly Southern Vietnam is home to the best beaches and roads that follow them in the country. This ride takes the best of them in, mixed with the best of the Southern Highlands into the Central cities of HoiAn and Danang.Â
Notes:Â Â
An early river ferry or VIP bus and start in Vung Tau is an option to shorten by a day.Â
Add days in Nha Trang, Quy Nhon, Hoi An or Danang. All good options to extend your experience.Â
Over the Hai Van Pass and back using these links and its easy to extend it to a two week adventure. Â
Danang, Vietnam’s third biggest city and the only one of the big three on the coast has many attractions and nightlife to enjoy. Ba Na Hills, The Dragon Bridge and the beautiful beaches worthy of a day or two before you start this tour.Â
The Da Nang / Hoi An Hinterland is also a great option if time permits to extend your experience. These links for two popular day loops.Â
Adding to the bucket list is easy. Starting to empty it takes a lot of planning and commitment. We’ve covered the planning. The rest is up to you.Â
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Cat Lai - Vung Tau via River
Distance: 145 kms
From the first right hand turn you get the feeling Saigon is well behind you and it’s game on.
Though at this point still a view to D7 over the river its a very different environment for the first timer out of the city. I remember it some 13 years ago fondly for that.
The first stretch of the river road was unsealed but generally pretty solid with plenty of pot holes but we were out of the rat race and into the fun. These days its all concrete so accessible even for scooters.
A lot of the land along the river is low lying wetland. Its an amazing area really considering its in such close proximity to the countries largest concrete jungle.
There’s always plenty to keep you interested. This isn’t a fast ride but one to relax and take it all in along the way.
(A, B, C, & D) Are all just way points on this one to keep you exploring off the main arterials. The coffee stop is a good one.
There is a short unavoidable stint on the QL51 before the left turn which gets you back on some quiet back roads again. The farmland areas this side of the highway are very different to the river section adding great diversity to the day.
(E) Is a winding bitumen road and the best of the ride if time allows. There’s plenty of off tracks and temples to explore up there also.
(F & G)Â Take you the best way into town and are two of the better seafood restaurants if a late lunch or early dinner is in order. The second on the water is my preference.
One of our preferred accommodation options overlooking the harbour and sunset. Vung Tau is on a peninsula and unique in Vietnam for a number of reasons. One most notable is that the sunrise is over the back beach and sunset over the front beach.
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Cat Lai Ferry - Vung Tau via Lakes
Distance: 155 kms
This is by far the best way I’ve been to avoid the traffic getting out North of the city and my favourite way to Vung Tau also. The police are rather active in the first 10 km or so from the ferry so watch your speed in that area.
Once you’re on the North side of the highway the roads open up and you can get a little more liberal with the throttle.
You’ll pass under the expressway and that’s my indicator that the fun is about to get real.
From there its diverse farmland and rubber plantations most of the way to the coast. Plenty of great deviations off this map so if you have time follow it loosely and enjoy some exploring. Many of the trails aren’t on maps but it doesn’t matter you’ll pick it up again later.
(A) gets you around the first and usually the only police stop and a bowl of Pho if you missed breakfast. Some other good food options once you get over the highway.
(B & C) are a couple cafes as pins to keep you on the most interesting route past two lakes.Â
(D) is another lake and a good lunch option keeping you on the right track through some rubber to the next lake. Careful ordering the portions very generous.Â
(E) Takes you around another lake and a good spot to throw a line for a half distance break. From here plenty of exploring off map to be done if time allows. Corn, banana, pepper, lots of sweet potato and cassava all grown in this area.Â
(F) is a memorial cross in memory of the 18 Australian and 245 Vietnamese soldiers killed In the August 1966 Battle of Long Tan.
(G) gets you down to the ocean for a coastal ride into Vung Tau. If short on time you can drop (G) at the Long Tan Cross for the more direct run in through Ba Ria.
(G & H) take you into Vung Tau along the newly developed back beach.Â
(I) The Twisted Throttle Tavern awaits for an icy cold beer or great pub food.Â
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Vung Tau - Bao Loc
Distance: 300 kms
Day one out of Vung Tau is just so much nicer than out of Ho Chi Minh City. We start off along the coast rather than having to battle the city traffic. Some weekend tourist traffic along this stretch but very quiet weekdays.
(A & B) get you the best way out then,
(C & D) take you for a look through an interesting fishing village.
The road leaves the absolute coast then a little and some heavy vehicles to be aware of until you get to
(E) on the map which is a great coffee stop on the water. Fully renovated now so this quaint little bar no longer.
Go easy speed wise into and out of Lagi. The traffic police in this area are rather dedicated.
Once you cross the A1 its game on though to your night destination really.
Note: In the first 5km after you cross the expressway there is often cattle on the road.
Good consistent hot mix. Fast open sweepers early then tightens up in the mountains. If you’re scratching the pegs here you won’t anywhere. One of my favourites in the South.
(F) missing this detour will cut your day by 15 km but a great lunch and swim spot.
(G) The first lake is worth the short detour but the road into the dam wall is sometimes closed of late.
(H) on the map is a detour 10 km each way and really worth doing if you have the time. Some great photo stops around a very picturesque lake system.
Bao Loc, home to the Ma Indigenous people is the commercial hub of Lam Dong province. A city of around 200,000 people with elevation of 850 Metres. Like Dalat, it can get cold at night and my experience has been that if its going to rain it will here.
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Bao Loc - Ta Dung - Dalat
Distance: 250 kms
As you will find evident with most of my recommended routes, the best way is far from the shortest way. Today’s ride is a great example of that. We literally go backwards to go forwards but so worth it.Â
(A) takes you around the dam wall as you can no longer ride over that. Good photo spot when you get to the wall. Especially if they are letting some water go.
(B) is your lunch stop. The food’s good and the restaurant views up with the best.
(C) a café I often stop at but added primarily as a way point otherwise Google will take you places you don’t want to be.Â
(D) is worth a stop. Climb up into the statue for great countryside views if you’re feeling fit. The Buddhist prayer area inside the statue at the base is worth checking out and from the base the best view of the waterfall also.
 You’ll find plenty of great photo stops during the afternoon ride. Really a great day in the South particularly given how terrible the busier options are.
Lots of accommodation options in Dalat but even so can be very busy in holiday times so it’s wise to book ahead.
(F) a favourite I use a lot. Quite unique particularly if you’re with a lady and a short walk to the night market and many of the recommended food options listed.
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Da Lat - Sorrento Beach Club
Distance: 215 kms
This is one of my favourite ride days in the South. A mix of great mountain and valley riding with some incredibly beautiful coastline thrown in.
Lorelle is your host for breakfast at One More Cafe. Very cheap for the quality of the meals though 8am open so it depends how early you want to get away. I recommend a good breakfast in any case as a good lunch spot I’m still yet to find on the route.
The morning ride off the plateau is a ripper.
(A) Some ladies selling fruit and drinks just before the big descent is a great first stop. This lovely lady has been looking after me there for years.
At the bottom of the descent plenty of cafes before the left turn where you start to follow the Cai River.
(B) A waterfall detour. It’s a bit of a trek in and with swim or fishing spots everywhere through there if you’re keen, an easy one to leave out.
(C) On the top of another range with views to the coast on a clear day is a must stop.
A short highway link then the coast ride around the headlands to your night stop is one of the best coastal rides in the country.
D, E, F & G all way points strategically placed as great photo stops before your night stop.
Sorrento Beach Club - Whale Island
Distance: 275 kms
The dawn is always out the front over the water and a good place to enjoy it from. An early swim, an early start on the bike or a relaxing breakfast from 7.30am all great options here.
If the weather is right there’s lots to see today and the coast ride at dawn is stunning if you’re up for it.
Some great photo opportunities including a quaint fishing village in a protected bay. I’ve marked numerous on the map but often through here now I’m so into the ride I bypass most. For safety use the well located parking bays. Tour buses frequent the area these days.
(A-D) on the map are great photo stops but plenty on offer.
(E) over the bridge to get you off the highway.
(F) is a great stop. Good food option right on the sand if you missed breakfast. The burgers are exceptional.
(G) is a good little pub run by Andy and Van if it’s getting around lunch time.
(H) you could give a miss if time is stretched but worth the diversion if not. Alternatively some great accommodation down there if you want to pull up short.
(I) I love this peaceful bay and the sister restaurant also pretty good though by road better to it than the rocky path if coming home in the dark after a few beverages:) Great fishing spot if you’re like me and take a pack rod.
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Whale Island - Quy Nhon
Distance: 185 kms
The coast ride today has some pleasant sections with exceptional coastal views but also some unavoidable stretches on the A1 so you need to be mindful of heavy vehicles on those sections. Not a big day distance wise and due to the higher speeds on the highway sections you’ll cover the distance easily so plenty of time to enjoy the stops and lunch. Some of the country’s most picturesque coastline so take your time.Â
(A) don’t miss this. Well worth the short detour and walk out to the lighthouse. Take water, it’s further than you think.
(B) is this very nicely constructed monument on the beach.
(C) is my recommendation for lunch if fresh seafood appeals to you. Many restaurants are on the water and haven’t found a bad one yet.
(D) plenty of great coastline and farmland to enjoy.
(G) At the top plenty of ladies selling souvenirs, snacks and drinks. A favourite early ride of mine for a Cafe Sua Da.
(E) Vietnam’s longest wooden bridge. I’ve been over it many times but its condition varies. Won’t be for everyone and there will be a small fee at the other end. Easy to go around the road if you opt out.
(F & G) are two of the many hotels and food options attached
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Quy Nhon - Mang Den
Distance: 285 kms
Quy Nhon is the best beach city in Vietnam in my opinion. A beautiful beach with a well kept parkland to accompany it. This is the dawn not to miss. From first light it is a vibrant area as the local dance groups, elderly and young alike exercise and swim in the dawn. I’m most often the only Westerner there and by 6.30am it’s all over. Get at it!
The map reads at 283 km but it’s only that if you want it to be. There’s a few detours that add nearly 80km. The longest is to check out a couple of lakes that you can decide on depending on time. Once you turn onto Truong Son Dong it gets quite isolated and you’ll make good time. Make sure you are fueled up and take water. Not much in the way of services through there but a cracking ride. The hotmix when you turn left to Mang Den is the best in the country.
(A) is a Buddhist Temple
(B) a hydro dam wall
(C) is the airstrip back in the supply trail days
(D) to check out the Vinh Son Lakes
(E) the Kon Chu Rang rangers station
(F) there is bottle fuel and cold refreshments
(G) a great little coffee shop ++
(H) Mang Den is a unique village in Vietnam and the Dak Ke Lake makes a nice morning walk.
(I) is a hidden gem. My favourite place to stay but book early. Not too many rooms.
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Mang Den - My Khe
Distance: 150 kms
There’s not too much in the way of attractions on this ride though for me the whole ride is an attraction. Shorter in respect of distance and for anyone wanting to make up a day easy enough to continue on up the coast to Hoi An or Da Nang.
To Veo Lac this morning is an exceptional track. For those on big bangers as good as it gets. Can be hard on footpegs and exhaust guards 🙄
Plenty off this map to explore if you want to fill the day up particularly for those on XR’s or smaller capacity adventure bikes. I take my Multistrada anywhere but it can be challenging, especially in the steep mountain areas.
(A, B, C & E) today are scenic areas for photo opportunities or just to suck it in.
(B) is a great view over the valley where you are about to ride in the foreground.
Once you get off the range for the more adventurous (D) will divert you to a minority road and through some lovely village country. This bridge is the entry if you turn a little earlier. Much more interesting through there. Some unsealed sections but at the rate the concrete is going down will be all paved before long.
Once into My Khe you’ll notice plenty of fresh seafood restaurants along the beach road. I find them expensive and the beer is never cold. The restaurant attached to the hotel is as good as any for my money. It’s a lovely beach and a great place to be up at dawn. This sunset I shot with my drone shows just how narrow the land passage is between the river and beach.
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My Khe - Hoi An Inland
Distance: 250 kms
In terms of distance this is a short day and a pleasant uncomplicated ride. 20 kms longer if you continue up the coast to Danang.
If Hindu ruins are of any interest to you it can be a very big day though. I’m not much for pagodas and temples so choose to visit only the more elaborate and famous but I do find My Son interesting. You can literally spend hours exploring the various sites.Â
Some interesting stops of interest along the way but My Son is the area to spend the majority of your available time.
(A) if you get away early is a great coastline vantage point.
(B) a war museum but really just marked to get you the best way out over the A1.
(C&D) a few nice waterfalls and nature walks in this area. Bit of time required to get the best of it.
(E) some decent local food stops in this area
(F) My Son Group is a World Heritage listed archeological site. These Hindu temple ruins date back as far as the 4th century and in my opinion a must do. 150k entry fee and surprisingly very few tourists generally.
A golf cart takes you to site from the entrance then on foot and it can be hot so take water. The parking guys will mind your helmet and jacket. No Drones allowed apparently 🤫
Many restaurants around the area offer Be Thui. Rare cooked Veal wrapped in leaf with vegetable. Quite a treat and not often offered.
From there its a simple ride into Hoi An or Danang to your preferred accommodation. The maps destination is a very nice Aussie owned Boutique Hotel.
Hoi An - Khe San
Distance: 340 Kms
This day distance wise is a bit bigger than usual but very quiet roads so you make good time. If you drop (A) off the map your miss a couple of river crossing but also drop off 30km.
(A) Is a breakfast stop if you get away early just before you turn onto Uncle Ho’s Road.
(B) and (D) are interesting rest stops but easy enough to bypass if you need to keep at it.
(C) A Tunnel through the mountains where I had one of only two encounters with a King Cobra. Not the best snake to upset.
(E) The Khe Sanh Statue in memory of lose involved in the 77 day 1968 siege.
(F) Is a Combat War Museum and really worth visiting. A lot to learn about the offensive between January 21 and July 9, 1968. One of the biggest battles of the Vietnam war.
If you don’t have time when you get in its open at 7am each morning.
(G) The view from some nice little glamping bungalows a few kilometers out of town. Historically not many good options here but better in recent years.
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Khe Sanh - Phong Nha
Distance: 230 kms
This is not a huge day distance wise but will take longer than you think. With an early start you’ll get it done comfortably at a relaxed pace though. This stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road is quite simply a must do experience in this country. Mostly a raked concrete surface with plenty of grip but hard on tyre’s and challenging in places if riding spiritedly. Landslides are common through here so be mindful of sand or clay on corners. My favourite ride day between Danang and Hanoi.
These days there is fuel available about half way but as always a good idea to fill before you leave and take water. There’s not too much in the way of services through much of this.
These days there is fuel available about half way but as always a good idea to fill before you leave and take water. Not too much in the way of services through much of this.
(A) The US Military Combat Base. Opens at 7.30am and is well worth a look for the modest entry fee. Quite a bit to learn there if you want to commit the time.
(B & C) are nice swim spots well located for rest stops.
(D) a good photo stop.
(E) one of few accommodation options if you wanted to break it up.
(F) another photo stop and
(G) a higher end accommodation option in the village on the river.
(B) This waterfall is my swim stop but better located when running this road South. A bit early in the day North bound but a great photo stop in any case.
(C) A roadside waterfall which in wet season particularly is a well located rest and photo stop.
(D) Always a stop here, one of very few intersections if leading others to group up. A historic milestone marks the corner and if you take left you’re off to the coast.
(E) Historically decent food on this ride has been hard to come by but Ms Thu at this well set up roadside cafe has got us covered these days.
(F) In recent times this hotel is an option in the unlikely event of a bike or health problem. I’ve never used it but now nice to know there’s something if needed.
(G) One of many caves in the area if you want to add that to the day. I’m usually to focused on the road to bother but it is a good rest stop.
(H) Phong Nha – Ke Bang tourist centre to pick up a souvenir of the area maybe on your way out or a boat for a run through the Phong Nha Cave.
(I) Is my go to out of town on the plain. Well appointed comfortable ensuite hotel rooms to pool villas with a well stocked bar, great pool and an extensive menu. Ben and Bich the hosts have great local knowledge and work hard putting together activities for their guests.
Phong Nha township on the banks of the Son River is part of Phong Nha-Kẻ Bà ng National Park, a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site
The area has developed in recent years as a popular tourist destination.
Attractions include numerous caves to explore. Phong Nha Cave a leisurely river cruise though caves under the mountains and Paradise a little more traditional dry cave are cheap and readily accessible. At the high end Hang Son Doong is reportedly the world’s largest cave with its own very unique ecosystem and a four day commitment, far from cheap to explore.
Also of note the limestone and bauxite monoliths rising from a vast floodplain to the North, were the land sections in the filming of King Kong. This area is a great motorcycling day loop from the township.
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Phong Nha - Hue
Distance: 240 kms
The road we refer to as Ho Chi Minh East is such a riding experience that this mix of Ho Chi Minh West and coastal is often overlooked. Though very different it is in itself a great ride day with some very interesting stops. A great addition to one of the most rewarding loop rides out of Danang.
(A) Is primarily a pin to keep you off the A1. A bridge over the river so a good first rest break and photo for the day.
(B) Quang Tri Ancient Citadel is located in the centre of what is now a significant town. For 150 years it was historically the administrative centre during the Nguyen Dynasty. More recently in 1972, much of it was destroyed during 81 days of battle but much of it restored to preserve its history. I reckon there’d be fish in the moat but not game until I see a local at it! 🙂
(C) Is an interesting well located break stop again a pin to keep you away from the main arterial.
(D) is the highlight of this day. If you skip the rest this is certainly worth your time. Over 2 km of tunnels with 7 exit points to the beach.
Unlike the much better known and marketed Cu Chi Tunnels these are 175cm high and wide enough to be comfortably explored by foreigners.
They were not built to fight either but to hide. The villagers, thought to be helping supply the Northern army were under attack from the South and built these for refuge.
Three levels down to 30 metres were dug as the underground safe haven for sixty families between 1966 and 1972 and so successful that no reported lives were lost and 17 children were born in them during that time.
An amazing experience the first time from the darkness to find an exit to a beautiful day and beach.
Put some time aside to visit the museum also. I’m not mad about museums generally but over several visits also go away better educated from time spent here.
(E) Around the monument are a plethora of seafood restaurants. Tried a few different ones over the years and it’s hard to divide them. All good and cheap.
(F) Is a coffee stop that also has unique accommodation right on the beach. If short on time or as a preference to overnight in the city, a good option.
(G) The expanse of rice to this bridge is a photo I couldn’t find. This one after plantation is not nearly as spectacular but you get the idea.
(H) Is the boardwalk along the river and a perfect start to the morning.
(I) my preferred hotel these days of the options listed. The price, staff, rooms and location tick all the boxes for me.
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Hue - Da Nang
Distance: 180 kms
A shorter day distance wise but plenty of stops and photo opportunities along the way. The dawn down on the river is a nice way to start the day. Plenty of locals out and about early also enjoying that.
(A) Just gets you out of the city on the right road to the island and fishing villages.
(B) One of many Temples in the area. Centuries old burial sites are also on the island.
(C) A lovely beach area and (D) plenty of locally caught seafood on offer for lunch.
(E) The top of the Hai Van Pass has been of significant strategic importance in the history of Vietnam. The narrow passage was a major barrier to any land army that attempted to move between the northern and central regions of the country in war times.
It’s easy to get carried away with the riding over the pass but take the time to park safely for a few photos and be mindful of fuel trucks who need some of your side of the road on switchbacks. Unrealistic passing maneuvers are also quite common.
The Monkey Pass (E & F) is another great scenic ride with beautiful views over the coast and Da Nang, Vietnam’s third largest city.
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